Living an expat’s life in Bahrain has been the most enchanting one. Every single day, I get a new cultural insight that leaves me enriched with life's lessons. Having spent a lot of time living in various countries, I found it relatively easy to settle in Bahrain because, all at once, it gave me the essence of all those places that I had lived in before. Initially I had reservations about adjusting to the Middle Eastern culture, but I was proved wrong in no time by the openness and the warmth of the people of Bahrain. But this education, that some of the cultural differences are only skin deep, was more through accumulation of little bursts of realisation than moments of epiphany. 

Bahrain, with its salubrious climate and sagacious clans, occupies a very prominent place amongst the countries in the Gulf. Bahrain’s Arabic name ‘al-Bahrayn’ means 'The Two Seas', but which also symbolically stands for Compassion and Love; the true Islamic spirit. Since time immemorial, Bahrain has been a trade port and a region of vast natural resources. If her sands could speak, they would unravel mysteries of age-old traditions and tell tales that have slowly faded over time. 

George Bernard Shaw said; "There is no love more sincere than the love of food," and it could not be any truer. Food is a great leveller and great food much more so, as it transcends culture, race and geographies. Societies are more accepting of foreign influence on food than on any other aspect of life. History is replete with witnesses of societies who have amalgamated different influences in food and created a new and unique blend to call their own. The Bahraini cuisine today is influenced by all the cultures that have settled in this country over the centuries such as Indian, Persian, Sri Lankan, and Palestinian. In the course of my culinary adventures, it dawned pretty soon that it was only in Bahrain that the aroma of Indian food merges seamlessly with the waft of Mediterranean cooking methods, interspersed with Arabic ingredients making it a heady concoction and a true 'foodie’s' delight. From simple aromatic cuisine and local markets, to snazzy restaurants and sizzling grills, Bahrain pleases and teases with the variety of food it has to offer.

Being a connoisseur of good food, bordering on gluttonous, I found that Bahrain was nothing short of a ‘Culinary Oasis’ that offers an unimaginable array of food options. Having a food blog helped, as it became a valid excuse to eat through Bahrain, literally! Sampling my way through more than fifty to sixty restaurants and local eating joints with family and friends has been by far the tastiest endeavour I might have ever undertaken in my life. 

For the Locavore

If you want to understand the essence of the Bahraini food culture, all you need to do is to follow my lead and pull up in a car to the tiny aluminium window at any of the bustling roadside grills and raise a hand to order a tikka. While you wait, sipping on a chilled cola or fresh fruit juice, and making idle conversations with your friends, a server would have by then set about preparing a lip-smacking wrap that can be eaten in the comfort of your own car. Tikka, or cutlets (usually lamb or chicken), are savoury pieces of meat usually herbed and spiced, marinated, char-grilled to perfection, and accompanied with a salad of fresh vegetables. Remember to chew it well, savouring the gorgeous texture of the chunky meat and wash it down with a cold drink. Ordering seconds is very common because these grills are known to churn out the most delicious pieces of meat eaten on their own or with pita bread / khuboos (Middle Eastern flat breads) as a wrap called the shawarma which is similar to the Australian gyro.

From the juicy meat pieces, we head towards the famed bread making khuboos shops of Bahrain. It is fascinating to watch a queue build up by nightfall outside these traditional bakeries. A burning clay hearth and experienced pairs of hands slap the dough to make khuboos, the most popular flatbread that the country eats every single day of its life. This hearty bread forms the base for almost all the food that is served at homes and in restaurants. A freshly baked khuboos emanates an aroma that tantalizes the senses with its simplicity and flavour. khuboos comes in a lot of sizes, shapes and flavours including sesame, melted cheese and honey brushed. My personal favourite is the plain khuboos that I love devouring bit by bit with some vegetables and hummus (chickpea dip).

These days tremendous stress is being laid on eating in harmony with the seasons, and eating locally produced food. Unfortunately for Bahrain, only one percent of the land is arable, and so the country is unable to produce enough food for its population and relies almost entirely on imports. But it is heartening to note that the Central Market, sprawling in the heart of Manama, sells fresh vegetables, fruits, seafood and meat which are either locally produced or imported. One can find an abundance of fresh fruits like dates, bananas, citrus fruits, mangoes, pomegranates, tomatoes and cucumbers that are cultivated in the region. Central Market also caters to the fresh meat and fish requirements of the populace.

There is a wide variety of fish in Bahrain, but none as prized as the hammour. The hammour is a member of the grouper family, but unlike many other groupers it can grow to two meters long, making it an outstanding sport fish. Prized for its firm white meat, there is no end to the various methods by which Bahrainis prepare this delicious fish. The meat absorbs the traditional spices perfectly and combines to create some remarkable and very memorable dishes. 

Oysters are another staple that the local populace eats with great gusto. 99.99 percent of oysters do not have a pearl in them. Fortunately, they do have a luscious lump of flesh, meaning all is not lost when you crack one open and don’t find a gem. Finding my way around the Central Market was reminiscent of the busy bazaars of India and haggling over crates of fresh produce gave me a high, like no other.

Once you have your meat and vegetables, all you need is the spices to cook them into finger-licking fare. For this, one has to visit the souq to experience the traditional way to go grocery shopping. The souq, the traditional market-place, is replete with mystique and a very enigmatic you-never-know-what-you-will-find charm. Upon entering the souq, one is welcomed by chatty shopkeepers trying their best to sell their resplendent wares. It would also be difficult to miss the aroma in the air, redolent of spices and herbs that seem to lead me to my chosen destination. Black lemons, saffron, cardamom, cloves, dried rose petals, turmeric, and sumac are some of the exotic spices that make their way into the aromatic Bahraini cuisine, and lend it the wonderful depth of flavour. 

Souqs of Manama and Muharraq are equally popular, and both of them do their bid in narrating stories of the past with great panache. I took an afternoon stroll through the colourful winding alleys of Manama and the Muharraq souq, which would go down as one of my most memorable walkabout in the city. I love visiting the country’s old capital, Muharraq which is a city rife with history and culture. It is one of the few areas in Bahrain that still maintains its authentic feel and true spirit, where a visit to its winding streets always brings with it deep sense of nostalgia and pride in the old city’s heritage.

The mention about seasonal foods would not be complete if I were not to mention the special occasion of Ramadan and the glorious food consumed during the Holy Month. It is a religious month when many Muslims fast between dawn and sunset. They only eat twice a day; suhoor, a meal eaten before the sun rises and iftar, the meal that breaks the fast at sunset. Traditionally, Muslims who fast, break it by consuming some date fruit at sunset before they go for their evening prayers. Dates are known to be the food that Prophet Muhammad, (Peace Be Upon Him), ate when he broke his fast. Dates are an excellent source of fibre, sugar, magnesium, potassium, and have carbohydrates which aid the body in maintaining health. The carbohydrates found in dates also make the fruit a slower digesting food. 

For Bahrain, the date or ritaab is nothing short of the 'jewel' of the nation and is a staple in Bahraini cuisine. A variety of dates are produced in abundance each year such as mawajji, shbeed, khlaas (the most popular), hatmi, and khwaja. It is a spectacular sight to see these varieties arranged in round wooden baskets on display at all the local stores and supermarkets. The dates are a source of national pride that provide nourishment to the body and heighten the flavour of any dish.

When Ramadan ends, celebration is in the air and Eid Al Fitr is celebrated with great excitement and furore with feasts in every home. Welcoming guests with sweets is customary during this time and halwa features most prominently amongst all others, in Bahrain. The halwa, a special concoction of cornstarch, saffron, sugar, nuts, ghee and rose water, is the harbinger of all things that mark a special occasion. It is jelly-like in texture, colourful, sweet and full of nutty goodness. Stored in large aluminium and steel containers, halwa is a decadent dessert that you would find on all special occasions such as weddings. The Showaiter name is synonymous with halwa in Bahrain and boasts of the most interesting colours, ingredients and tastes.

Bahrain's traditional food includes fish, meat, rice and dates. One of the traditional dishes is machboos which is made up of meat or fish served with rice. Another known food is muhammar which is sweet rice served with dates or sugar. Bahrainis also eat other Arabic food such as falafel; fried balls of chickpeas served in bread. Traditional snacks include samboosa and pastry. Another delicacy is qoozi (ghoozi), which is grilled lamb stuffed with rice, boiled eggs, onions and spices. It is a Bahraini custom where a plate is shared between several (or all) members of a family / party.

With seven months of summer, it can get pretty hot in Bahrain and on a sultry day, however weird it may sound, I would gladly settle for a chai haleeb (tea). A local favourite, the tea with milk is a staple in Bahraini cuisine and diet. This aromatic infusion of tea, cardamom and milk is consumed from beautifully decorated slim glass cups called istikanah or the more casual glaas. This concoction awakens the senses gradually and as you drink it, it cascades down the back of your throat lending the much needed warmth required in the early hours of the morning. As simple as it sounds, it becomes indulgent when special herbs and condiments such as saffron, black lime, fresh mint leaves, and cloves find their way into this humble chai.

Also, if you are hanging around with some hospitable Bahrainis, there’s a high probability that they would usher you to an Arabic coffee house (or known as gahwa shops locally) for some drinks. The lanes of Bahrain are dotted with these coffee houses and manage to hold their own among the Starbucks and Costa Coffees of today. These coffee shops provide the conversational gambit and socializing opportunities for the youth and the elderly gents alike. They spend time playing a game of carrom, dominoes or watching a live football match of their favourite team on television, whilst sipping on their stimulating beverage. Serving gahwa to guests is considered a part of the traditional welcome in Bahrain. It is usually poured into a coffee-pot, which is called dalla and served in a small cup made for coffee, called finjan, which is only half-filled. The term gahwa was originally applied to wine and gahwa was known as the 'Wine of Islam.' Originally, the un-roasted beans were ground and brewed to be used as a stimulant to prevent sleeping during ceremonies. The Persians are responsible for adding the roasting process later on. It took an embarrassing episode to orient me into the Bahraini coffee drinking culture when I found that my cup was being refilled again and again without my insisting to do so. I will forever remember that I need to shake the cup indicating that I have finished and wouldn’t want any more coffee. I was told later that it is considered good manners for the guest to restrict themselves to three servings of coffee and, to my dismay, I had surpassed that limit of servings. But the large hearted Bahrainis often overlook first time blunders and we still have a hearty laugh recalling that instance.

Most of the times, a coffee is most enjoyed in the accompaniment of sheesha. The traditional sheesha (hookah), containing sweetened, and often flavoured, tobacco is smoked by many Bahrainis. The sheesha is served in most open-air coffee shops, where both locals and expatriates can be seen whiling away time enjoying the sheesha, and sharing a conversation.

For the Globavore

Bahrain offers all sorts of cuisines to cater to all price segments and palettes, from neighbourhood take-out joints and food courts to exquisite fine dining and speciality restaurants. A staggering diversity of global cuisines from the common Indian and Middle Eastern to the rarer ones like Polynesian, can leave you spell bound. So there is no reason for any expat or tourist to feel home sick because in all probability they would be able to savour their country’s food in many restaurants in Bahrain. 

Like any expat, I spent the first few months devouring the gourmand delights at the restaurants in Adilya, to the point that it inspired me to start an un- sponsored Restaurant Review Project on my blog. Each restaurant snazzier than the other and I happily coined Adilya the sophisticated celebration of urban Bahrain. The district offers a choice of high class restaurants that are bold and eager to innovate and to please the evolving palates of their customers. So if you have the cash to splash and a penchant for elegant food, this dining scene is for you. Some of my personal favourites are Camelot, Upstairs Downstairs, Café Lilou and Jim’s. Having said that, it would be unpardonable not to mention the other restaurant districts in Juffair, Seef and Budaiya. These culinary districts offer a fantastic range of different cuisines in well-designed outlets. Many of these restaurants are old houses converted into very nice restaurants and lounges and it’s near impossible to find a table on the weekends. 

I also find myself heading to Seef more often than not in search of more varied experiences in eating out. Seef is a cosmopolitan area with a high concentration of internationally renowned restaurants offering every conceivable cuisine including American, Japanese, Lebanese, Indian, Chinese and French; even the odd Chocolatier can be found. Bahrain hasn’t remained unaffected by the organic foods trend that has taken the rest of the World over by a storm. In Seef, you would find organic foods being sold in outlets and cafés. 

Some of the other popular restaurants in Bahrain that serve great international fare include Le Mediterranean in Bahrain (Ritz-Carlton Hotel), Versailles at Regency Intercontinental, Fish Market Seafood restaurant at Al Bander resort, La Pergola at Gulf Hotel and Kei in Golden Tulip. Some of these hotel restaurants even run theme buffets which are interesting, seasonal and they serve all twenty-four hours and seven days of the week. The tipping etiquette requires that in addition to the 10-15 percent rule, it is generally acceptable to round up the bill amount and consider the change involved as tip.

The other distinctive feature of this tiny island’s eating habits is that fast food joints are ubiquitous in every nook and corner of Bahrain. Jasmi’s is a home grown fast food brand of Bahrain and very popular among the locals and expats alike. 

For writing inspiration, I often find myself heading to Starbucks or Caribou Coffee in the American Alley in Juffair. Nothing stokes my imagination more than a hot cup of cappuccino prepared perfectly by smiling servers at these coffee joints. American Alley is named so because it predominantly burgeoned to cater to the American Naval Base in its vicinity. This sparkly street is a 'foodie’s' paradise and wonderful on a day when you feel like hanging out with your friends and having a hearty meal that is also light on your wallet. 

The newest sensation to watch out for in Bahrain would be the waterfront pioneering project in Amwaj Islands. It has some of the most ultra modern, classy restaurants and cafés precinct and each day keeps adding more glamorous outlets to its repertoire. Bahrain’s insatiable appetite for growth is developing this tiny, historic island into one of the Gulf’s most dynamic food hubs.

I don’t think any account of the Bahrain would be worth reading if it didn’t at least in part, try to explain the warmth and kindness of the Bahraini people. ‘Ahlan wa sahlan!’ means ''Welcome' in Arabic and it is so much a part of the Bahraini life that they even cast the words in brass and hang them over the front door for all to see. Hospitality is a source of pride with the Bahraini people; there are few places in the world where will you be made to feel so welcome. So I hold in very high regard their generosity of spirit and enthusiasm for life which translates into their cuisine and food habits. The food of Bahrain inspired me to start a food blog which I so enjoy writing, eating, cooking, baking and creating for. With every bite I feel I am given the opportunity to discover attitudes, practices, and rituals surrounding the food culture in Bahrain. Attempting to understand Bahrain through its food is a journey that I have undertaken with great passion and the experiences have been nothing less than spectacular.