Visiting Old Bahrain

Visiting Old Bahrain

By Shauna Nearing Loej


According to archaeologists and researchers, Bahrain has a vast cultural history spanning over seven thousand years. In more recent history, over the past forty years, Bahrain has sought ways to safeguard this history while uncovering and preserving its cultural relics. These progressive initiatives are revealed when you walk through the doors of the island’s pre-eminent museums, stroll through the old bazaars and can be seen throughout the natural surroundings from the ancient forts to the burial mounds. Preserved for the people and future generations, a look at these cultural treasures is a time well spent.


Museums


The Bahrain National Museum is located on the waterfront facing Al-Fatih Highway and is home to the most comprehensive archaeological evidence of the country’s rich past spanning thousands of years. The museum was purposefully built to house the country’s burgeoning collection of cultural artefacts and to preserve cultural heritage. Inside the expansive two-storey building that opened in 1988, are six themed halls housing its permanent collection, featuring the island’s most important collection of archaeological artefacts unearthed in digs over the past fifty years. Coins, seals, pottery, jewellery and historical documents are some of the artefacts which piece together Bahrain’s ancient history. Even reconstructed ancient burial mounds are on display, complete with skeletal remains and an array of grave-site artefacts. The popular tableau exhibits brings us to more recent history highlighting local customs and traditions still maintained throughout generations of Bahrainis.


Nestled in the narrow walking streets of the old capital of Muharraq is a truly fine example of bringing Bahrain’s history to life. The Shaikh Ebrahim bin Mohammed Al-Khalifa Centre For Culture and Research has restored the traditional homes of some of Bahrain’s most significant cultural figures of the past such as namesake, Shaikh Ebrahim, a prominent figure in the fields of education, culture and the social sciences. Opened in 2002, the centre consists of ten distinctive houses dedicated to their past residents who were leaders in music, journalism, poetry and pearl trading. Other houses feature artisans at work with traditional handicrafts, a children’s library and a café all within walking distance of each other, except for the Poetry House which is located in Manama. Traditional Bahraini architecture from wooden shutters and stained glass windows to benches and doorways are revived to magnificent form. Each house does an exceptional job of capturing the life and times of its great cultural dwellers and furthering their legacies through the extensive array of activities the centre offers. 


The pristinely restored Shaikh Isa Bin Ali House located in central Muharraq is an excellent model of traditional local architecture from the nineteenth century. Home of the longest serving ruler of the country, Shaikh Isa bin Ali Al Khalifa from 1869 to 1932, the structure is characterized by a still functional traditional wind tower and massively thick walls designed to keep its inhabitants cool. Small wooden doors and intricate archways open to courtyards, and to the many rooms regally decorated with wall carvings.


Situated in the Diplomatic district, Beit Al Qu’ran offers insight into Bahrain’s religious heritage through a distinguished collection of the Qur’an from around the world. The outside of the building is intricately engraved with Quranic verses and a distinctive Minaret decorate Beit Al Qur’an or the Qur’an House. Inside is an impressive cultural museum showcasing a rare and notable collection of the Qur’an and other Islamic manuscripts. The entrance hall is marked with high ceilings and a small mosque with a remarkable circular stained glass ceiling. The museum also features a lecture hall, a library as well as the Kanoo School for Quranic Studies. 


The most recent initiative to promote Bahrain’s cultural heritage is the Bahrain National Charter Monument located in Sakhir. Built in honour of the 2001 National Action Charter where the majority of voters pledged support for the King, the museum focuses on past and present achievements of the country. The names of the two hundred and twenty thousand voters are carved on the exterior of the museum. Inside the state-of-the-art circular style museum is an interactive experience exploring recent history and culture. Although unveiled by His Majesty in 2010, the museum is not yet open to the general public.


Preserving History


In addition to the great archaeological digs of the 1960s, Bahrain has gone to great lengths in recent years to restore its cultural relics from the forts, temples, mosques and protecting the burial mounds.


In 2005, the Bahrain Fort on the northern shore near Karranah became a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands as the island’s most significant archaeological finding for the amount of history it covers. The fort was built in the fourteenth century by the Portuguese, however archaeologists found layers of continuous human occupation of the site from the Dilmun, Tylos and Islamic civilisations from around 2300BC up to the Portuguese occupation. The recent addition of a museum enlightens visitors about the fort and its history. 


The Arad Fort located in Muharraq is a fifteenth century fort, built in Islamic style was a strategic defensive fortress. Extensive restorations in the 1980s used traditional materials such as coral stones, lime, gypsum and date palm trunks to maintain the authenticity of the original structure. What we see today is an impressive model of how to bring the past into the present, as the fort is often used as the backdrop for many of the island’s cultural events.


Perched on a cliff overlooking east Riffa, the nineteenth century Shaikh Salman Bin Ahmed Al Fateh Fort is an architectural splendour representing Islamic military and local building methods of the area at the time. Compared to other local forts, the Riffa Fort was wholly built by local Bahrainis using local materials such as desert stone, lime, gypsum, clay, palm trunks and mangrove poles. Wooden chamber doors are intricately carved while typical local-style benches decorate the three main courtyards. Although built for military purposes as the battlements reveal, after securing the island the fort was primarily used as a residence for the royal family. In the late 1980s, restoration work began on the fort until late 1993 when the fort opened to the public. 


Al Khamis Mosque in the northern area of Manama is one of the oldest mosques in the Gulf region believed to have been built over one thousand three hundred years ago during the Ummayad caliphate. Inscriptions found at the site indicate the foundation was laid in the eleventh century. Standing gracefully with its characteristic twenty-five meter high twin minarets, the mosque is believed to have been rebuilt twice over the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries with only one wall remaining of the earliest mosque. Another noteworthy historical mosque on the island is the Siyadi Mosque in Muharraq built in the nineteenth century. The mosque’s unique minaret towers over the restored Siyadi House from the same period and home of former pearl merchant Ahmed Bin Qassem Siyadi.


The Barbar Temple in Barbar Village, like the Bahrain Fort, provides interesting insight into ancient civilisation in Bahrain. Excavations by Danish archaeologists during the 1960s revealed three temples built on top of one another at varying intervals in time, with the first temple believed to have been built around 2000BC. The artefacts found at the site such as the seals from the Dilmun period, are housed in the Bahrain National Museum. Ancient temples have also been found in Saar and Diraz. 


Ancient burial mounds dating from the Dilmun period are believed to be the largest prehistoric cemetery in the world and have provided invaluable historical insight from the artefacts found in and around the graves. Over seventeen thousand burial mounds have been discovered, although many have been destroyed over the years. The burial mounds are found in many villages around the island from Saar and Shakura to Janabaiya and Hamad Town. Those dotted throughout Al A’ali village in particular are excellent examples of preserved mounds and also include royal burial mounds. 


Treasured Souqs


Bahrain’s traditional bazaars or souqs are also steeped in a rich cultural history. From its origins, souqs were more than just a place to buy goods from merchants - going to the souq was a social event. Today, there are many souqs scattered throughout towns and villages on the island from the century-old souq in Muharraq to the tourist drawn Manama Souq. Take time to visit these landmarks and witness Bahrain’s vibrant culture at its best. Amidst the hustle and bustle there is something for everyone; from clothing, perfume and jewellery to spices, fabric and furniture. Each souq is definitely different from the next so take time to visit them all.


The Muharraq Souq or the Al Qaisariya Souq as it is known locally, is low-key compared to the larger Manama and Isa Town markets but you will soon discover, this is exactly the reason to visit. You will be struck by its old world charm, friendly folks and interesting architecture of a bygone era. The detailed craftsmanship of the old doors and shutters on warehouses and stores may be in rough shape but you can get an idea of how this area used to look. Small streets are lined with Arab coffee pots, textiles, pottery and fresh produce. Without the typical tourist knick-knacks in sight, you can take advantage of the quaintness of the Muharraq Souq. Enjoy peering down the streets lined with barber shops and tea rooms featuring traditional Bahrain-style wooden benches. Given the relentless summer heat, shopkeepers would be forgiven for assembling a makeshift aluminum roof covering. A planned facelift therefore, will hopefully take the best of the old and leave the scrap metal behind.


If you get hungry, a quick stop at one of the small restaurants on the main road for an inexpensive and tasty veggie samosa should stave off the hunger until you can make your way to the sweet shops for a halwa and Arabic coffee - this is really what makes the Muharraq Souq famous. Halwa - rich, gooey and oh so sweet, is a traditional Arabic dessert eaten at any time of the year for any occasion. Festively coloured from burnt orange to green due to ingredients like saffron and cardamom, halwa is jelly-like in form and is often laced with nuts such as pistachios or cashews. Halwa comes in a few different varieties and is best enjoyed fresh, warm and with traditional Arabic coffee.


The busiest of the island’s souqs is undoubtedly the Manama Souq. The souq consists of smaller souqs or quarters known as the Gold Souq, Fabric Bazaar, the Spice Souq and a mélange of tourist shops, electronic stores, perfume stalls, tailors and restaurants. Starting at Bab Al Bahrain which before land reclamation, stood on the waters' edge as the gateway to the island. The seventy year-old landmark is also slated for a refurbishment in time for the island’s celebration as the Cultural Capital of Arab World 2012. After passing though Bab Al Bahrain, the main street into the souq begins with regular shops selling electronics and sporting goods, then the street then transitions into tourist-trap stores selling gaudy but fun mosque alarm clocks, musical camels, fake designer handbags and watches. Make your way past these shops and turn down one of the small streets off the main road where you are likely to see shops selling inexpensive clothing, towels and toys.


Like the Muharraq Souq, one should not overlook the food offerings, especially when you Indian food is on offer. Catering to local shopkeepers, businessmen and workers in the area, you can nosh on chapatti, chana masala and samosas with tea for less than one Bahraini Dinar, or visit one of the many juice bars dotting the streets.


Haggling, bargaining, negotiating, call it what you like but when you come to the souq, you want a deal. And a deal is what you will get - if you ask. Unlike the big malls, bargaining is not only expected by most merchants, it is often built into the asking price sometimes by up to fifty percent or more. Go ahead ask for a discount and then like any good haggler, be prepared to walk away. Walking away is sometimes a good way to bring on a better discount. It’s worth the gamble and its fun. Some things are less negotiable than others. Tourist items like the infamous musical camel and mosque alarm are always negotiable even down to half the asking price. Tailoring is negotiable within a couple of dinars. At the Gold Souq you can always work with your jeweller for a favourable price within your budget. Have courage and bargain away.


The Fabric Bazaar is a souq within the Manama souq and a cluster of fabric shops found mostly on the right side off the main road although you will find some tailor shops scattered throughout the souq selling their own fabric. Start with the popular Mohammed Jamal whose souq location prices are often cheaper than their other locations. After, take a right and then the first left that takes you to a small street filled with fabric shops. A must, is a stop at the sewing accessories store Tarradah on the left side simply to marvel at the drawers upon drawers of buttons and snaps, as well as rolls of colourful ribbons and thread. You can’t beat the prices and selection in the fabric souq. A metre of cotton will cost you about a dinar or less if you bargain for it. After you have selected some fabric there is no need to run to the pricier men’s and ladies tailors out of town when some of the most inexpensive and very decent ones can be found here. A ladies dress made in the souq starts around 7BD compared to out of town tailors who will make the same dress for you for 10BD or more. To have a men’s suit made prices usually start at 22BD without fabric or 40BD with fabric included. Expect to pay the paltry sum of 3BD to have a men’s shirt tailored.


When you feel the air thick with a nutty haze, or you catch a whiff of cinnamon, you have hit the Spice Souq. The Spice Souq is really a cosy street made up of small shops selling spices and dried goods. The beauty of the Spice Souq is that you can choose whatever amount of fresh spices, nuts or other dried goods instead of the supermarket’s pre-determined size. And you won’t pay much for it. For 600fils you can get a half kilo of black peppercorns and 400fils for a quarter kilo of coriander powder. In this area you will undoubtedly stumble across shops that have been around for many years and passed on from generation to generation.


The Gold Souq is housed in a three storey building and is less charming than its street level counterparts. But don’t dismiss the Gold Souq for how it looks - it’s what’s inside that counts! Inside you will find a glittering array of shop selling their best gold, gems and the coveted and exquisite Bahraini natural pearls. Ultimately, you’ll find the best part of the Gold Souq is not what is on display, but what you can have made. 


Customers, who are often expats looking for a better deal then what they can get back home, tend to bring in their own ideas and designs to have made. Jewellers will work with customers from each stage of the design process so that the product can be developed together. Some jewellers will even work over email to design a piece of jewellery. Gold in the souq tends to be 18 carat or 21 carat. Those favouring a higher carat should also check out the shops at street level around the corner from the Gold Souq.


On your way out of the Gold Souq stop at the ground floor café and for a dinar enjoy a fresh pressed juice or a soft drink cocktail or try their best-selling Oreo Madness Milkshake also for a dinar.


At the Isa Town Local Market or the Souq al Haraj, there really is something for everyone from carpets to furniture, fresh produce to dry goods and fishing gear, to live animals. Go on a Saturday morning for the flea market atmosphere when the locals are out scurrying from shop to shop to fill their cupboards and closets. But get there early to avoid parking chaos. The local market will certainly awaken your senses. You will not smell anything like it when you catch a whiff of perfumes and oils mixed with the neighbouring animal bazaar. Cages, tanks, baskets and even car trunks are full of birds, frogs, turtles, rabbits and fish line this area of the market. One dinar will get you a small budgie bird or four small fish or a small turtle while small frogs go for a mere 400fils. 


The Isa Town market is also known as the Iranian market for its carpet. You will have your pick of carpet shops carrying contemporary to Persian-style carpets. As you make your way through the small pedestrian streets you will witness a treasure trove of second-hand furniture and clothing shops. Dig deep for that treasure however, as everything is usually heaped up high. If picking through a pile of used furniture and clothing is not your thing, that there are plenty of new furniture and clothing shops throughout the market.


Times are changing for the souqs however, reflecting both a need to update the infrastructure and buildings and perhaps most importantly, to bring people back into what used to be the heart and soul of towns and villages. The most recent result of revitalisation is the covered area of the Manama Souq. Visitors to the area can now stroll through an indoor souq with shops and cafés, all within air-conditioning comfort, which is most welcome on hot desert days. Other areas of the Manama Souq remain however as they were. Plans are in the works to modernise the Muharraq Souq and the Isa Town local market. Catch a glimpse of the past, experience the new and really feel the vibrant souqs of Bahrain. Opening hours are generally between 8am till 1pm, and 3.30pm till 9pm most days with shorter opening hours on Friday.

About Shauna

Shauna found a love of words as a youngster writing about walks in the forest in her native Cape Breton Island, Canada. Fast forward through a career in public relations and corporate communications which led to a keen interest in Internet communications. This interest was formalized by earning a Master of Arts in Communication with a concentration in Internet communications. Shauna's most recent writing endeavours include arts and leisure publications in the Kingdom of Bahrain. These experiences have brought profound insight into the rich history and culture of the island that has been her home for over five years. Shauna lives with her husband Morten and their three children, and hopes one day to also write stories for children. 


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